In the world of high fashion, jewelry is not merely an accessory but also a symbol of status, culture, and enduring value. Gemstones, formed over millions of years, hidden deep within the earth or at the bottom of the ocean, carry stories of time and magnificent nature. From dazzling diamonds and sparkling emeralds to brilliant rubies and shimmering pearls, each gemstone possesses its own unique beauty and energy.
From sparkling diamonds to mysterious emeralds
Besides diamonds, we cannot fail to mention emeralds – the stone of rebirth and hope, with their deep green color reminiscent of mysterious tropical forests. Ruby, with its fiery red color, symbolizes love and passion, while sapphire, with its royal blue hue, offers elegance and sophistication.
In addition, there are countless other gemstones such as amethyst with its gentle beauty, multicolored topaz, or pearls from the deep sea with their pure and classic beauty. Each gemstone has its own unique characteristics, creating diversity and richness for jewelry designers to unleash their creativity.
Nomenclature: Clarifying the different names for Coral
Pearls and coral were among the first gemstones cherished by humankind, originating from ancient civilizations. With coral, its natural beauty and the symbolic meaning of its red color, along with its naturally branched shape, placed this marine creature on the list of precious jewels of our ancestors. Today, out of more than 7,300 coral species, only 10 are considered precious corals in the high-end jewelry industry, with Purest Red Mediterranean Coral and Light Pink Angel's Skin Coral being the most famous in the world of luxury jewelry.
Let's try to clarify this with a little knowledge of biology and more specific jewelry terminology.
Corals are animals belonging to a group called the phylum Cnidaria, which comprises over 7,300 species, including reef-building corals that live primarily in shallow waters. According to the jewelry standards issued by CIBJO – The World Jewellery Confederation (visit www.cibjo.org to see the Coral book in the Blue Book series), the precious corals used in high-end jewelry are limited to a very small group, known biologically as the family Corallidae, which, depending on the species they originate from, have a bright, porcelain-like sheen. They vary in color, from traditional crimson to pure, uniform white, with some intermediate pinks or orange-pink hues, and also exhibit mottled or spotted textures. Within this group are about ten species of coral used in jewelry, and they do not live in the same ecosystems and ocean depths as their relatives in other coral reefs. Coral species that build reefs in shallow waters, now affected by climate change and ocean acidification, are not actually used in high-end jewelry. Although they share the common name "coral," reef corals are not the same as precious corals.
Experts often refer to precious corals by their biological names: the two-part name of the species in Latin italics. This is the most common way to communicate species (e.g., Corallium rubrum). However, the jewelry industry tends to use common language and many local dialects to describe coral products (e.g., Sardinian Coral, Mediterranean Coral, etc.). A better understanding of coral biological names can be helpful if we want to understand their variations, as well as issues related to conservation and resource management. Please see the chart at the end with common precious coral trade names and their typical corresponding species. In the chart, you will note, again, that only about ten coral species are used in precious jewelry.
Angel Skin Coral
Among precious coral species, the pale pink to orange-pink or red Pleurocorallium elatius and the snow-white Pleurocorallium konojoi have been quite popular in high-end jewelry since the late 19th century. They represent corals that transition almost continuously from pure white to red. One of the most interesting varieties of this group is the rare and highly valued “Angel Skin” coral. Angel Skin, or “pelle d’angelo” in Italian, is the romantic name for the sweet, uniformly pale pink P. elatius coral, also known in Japan as magai or boké, which is actually an unusual coral coloration due to an albino-like disorder. Albinos are extremely rare among other precious coral species and slightly less so in this one, allowing for the collection of marbles and cabochons for crafting distinctive jewelry. In fact, to be completely accurate, Angel's Skin is a term used by coral traders for all species of rare albino corals that are very pale pink, but primarily P. elatius.
To further appreciate the rarity of this unusually rare coral, when collecting a strand, the higher the quality and size of the beads, the longer the completion time, sometimes even decades. Therefore, it is often considered a never-ending collection. This is the true rarity level of Angel's Skin coral from P. elatius, and this is why a single exquisite strand of coral can sometimes fetch a very high price.
Sardinian Coral
The quintessential coral for exquisite jewelry is the traditional species from the Mediterranean and the neighboring Atlantic, the red coral Corallium rubrum, known as Sardinian coral or Mediterranean coral. The red color of this small, branching coral, when compared to its larger counterparts in Asia, has been highly valued throughout history for its powerful symbolism. It can be seen in ancient texts such as the Bible, the Quran, and in Jewish, Buddhist, and Hindu traditions. Sardinian coral can be found in historical heritage artifacts, not only in the coastal regions of that sea-filled basin, but as far afield as equatorial Africa, the Middle East, and the Far East Asia, all bearing evidence of very ancient trade routes. Today, harvesting these coral species is subject to very strict regulations by the FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations) Mediterranean Fisheries Commission, with restrictions aimed at protecting the species. Harvesting of this coral below 50 meters is limited to a minimum body size and is only permitted for highly experienced divers. In addition, there is regular demarcation of protected areas to safeguard the species and their longevity.
Red coral – a living gem carrying the energy of the planet Mars.
In the world of natural gemstones, red coral is a "living gem" from the deep sea, possessing the intense color and unique spirit of Mediterranean and Asian nature. Red coral (Corallium rubrum) is not a mineral like ordinary gemstones, but rather the calcified skeleton of a marine organism that lives attached to reefs at depths of approximately 30 to 300 meters. The name "red coral" evokes both intense aesthetic inspiration and holds a mystical depth in culture and astrology. The characteristic beauty of red coral lies in its vibrant red, deep orange, or sometimes mysterious apricot pink hues, along with its natural sheen and warm feel to the touch. Not only is red coral favored in high-end jewelry making for its vibrant red color and pristine beauty, it is also known as a stone that brings success, power, and overall health to its owner – especially those pursuing fields related to leadership, business, sports, or performing arts.
Red coral is often crafted into cabochons or garlands of round beads for use in high-end jewelry design. Its distinctive red color – ranging from crimson and orange-red to deep crimson – along with its organic origin, makes red coral a favorite choice not only in crafting but also in astrological applications.
High-quality red coral is primarily harvested in Japan and Italy – regions with stable ecosystems and tightly controlled harvesting processes. The combination of a long natural formation process, unique geographical conditions, and vibrant structure is what gives red coral its timeless value – a precious gift from the deep ocean, embodying beauty, energy, and cultural depth in every detail.
Not only is red coral distinguished by its vibrant and iconic beauty, but it is also considered one of the most influential gemstones in astrology, thanks to its strong association with the planet Mars – a symbol of strength, action, and decisiveness.
Red coral is often recommended for those working in the military, police, professional sports, or jobs requiring endurance, strong energy, and quick decision-making. This stone is believed to transmit the positive qualities of Mars, such as decisiveness, proactive action, and intense focus. Because of these characteristics, red coral has become a symbol of leadership, business success, and stable health.
When worn correctly and at the right time, red coral is not only a precious piece of jewelry, but also a subtle form of astrological therapy, helping people unlock their inner strength, transform challenges into power, and live fully with their individuality. This is the deepest spirit of fashion intertwined with a philosophy of life: beauty comes not only from form, but also from the energy and belief hidden behind each item we choose to wear.
Responsible sourcing
However, due to its beauty and high economic value, red coral has been overexploited, leading to a serious decline in its numbers. According to research by the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI), red coral reefs can take decades to recover after being exploited. Therefore, sustainable and proper harvesting methods are a prerequisite for the conservation of this rare species. The true value of red coral comes not only from its beauty, but also from how humans harvest and cherish it. Harvesting red coral requires a strict control process to ensure that it does not affect the marine ecosystem – a matter that is closely monitored by many countries and organizations such as CITES. When harvested properly, each piece of red coral not only possesses rare beauty, but also symbolizes the harmony between humans and nature – a value increasingly valued in the era of sustainable fashion.
Today, many high-end brands and jewelry designers are committed to using only legally harvested red coral, adhering to conservation standards such as the CITES Convention (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora). Reputable suppliers will have clear certifications regarding origin and responsible harvesting processes. This not only contributes to ocean conservation but also enhances the value of the jewelry: when you wear a piece of jewelry made from sustainably harvested red coral, you are wearing a work of art linked to ethics and ecological awareness.
CIBJO has a special Coral Committee headed by Christina Lang Assael, President and CEO of Assael. The Coral Committee, active since 2014, has been actively researching and communicating these conservation and sustainability concerns to the jewel industry with a particular emphasis on climate action, encouraging all coral producers and dealers to measure their carbon footprint and become aware of the challenges facing all biogeographic materials like coral and humanity today. Therefore, adherence to good business practices and responsible sourcing is crucial when handling this beautiful and historically significant gemstone material that we know and love as precious coral.
We are aware that several valuable coral species are listed in Appendix III of CITES, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, also known as the Washington Convention. While being on a protected list might seem like a trade ban, the fact that these coral species are listed in Appendix III has a different meaning. Appendix III brings together species that are not threatened but require monitoring, specifically by documenting all international trade activities (e.g., imports, exports) to provide official data that contributes to improving resource management policies in countries of origin. In a similar spirit, CIBJO recently published a Coral Guide for Customs, translated into multiple languages, to assist authorities in that monitoring process. Knowing about CITES and how it works, it becomes clear that gemstone material from a species listed in Appendix III, if accompanied by appropriate documentation in international trade, is a perfectly safe and legal product to trade, complying with the regulations and trade standards of that jurisdiction. To assess the difference in CITES listings, for example, in Appendix I, where no precious corals are listed, trade is prohibited (e.g., turtle shells, hornbill ivory), and Appendix II, also where no precious corals are listed, is for species that are not necessarily threatened currently, but could become so unless trade is controlled (e.g., narwhal ivory, queen conch).
Rare coral species listed in Appendix III of CITES include the crimson coral Corallium japonicum found in Japan and very common in China, the pale pink, orange to red coral P. elatius found in Japan and Taiwan, and the pure white coral P. konojoi from Vietnam (you can refer to the full list of rare coral species and CITES in the CIBJO coral book mentioned above).
When a piece of jewelry is made from red coral or gemstones that are properly and ethically sourced, its value lies not only in its beauty or material. It also embodies the values of respect for nature, community responsibility, and a sustainable future. Such a piece of jewelry is not only beautiful but also carries a meaningful story, making its owner proud of their choice. This is also why jewelry from responsibly sourced sources is increasingly sought after by fashion enthusiasts and those who appreciate beauty.
Gemstone jewelry is not just a luxury item; it's a story about the interplay between nature, culture, and human consciousness. When choosing products made from natural gemstones like red coral, the important thing is not only the beauty but also the act of preserving that beauty for future generations. True fashion reflects not only beauty but also a responsible mindset – towards the planet, the community, and oneself.
Source: Assael.com - Obssessed by Pearls. Blogger Rui Galopim de Carvalho, FGA DGA, Gemologist, World Renowned Gemology Educator and Coral Expert
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