Ramie • From the kitchen to fashion

I remember when I was little, my grandmother used to send sticky rice cakes wrapped in thorny leaves from her village in Binh Dinh province to Nha Trang. She taught me , " That's a sweet and wholesome gift from Central Vietnam," and emphasized that this wasn't just a snack. Sticky rice cakes wrapped in thorny leaves only appear during ancestral worship ceremonies, festivals, weddings, and other family gatherings. They are a solemn offering to ancestors, a carefully wrapped gift carrying the full meaning of blessings to send far away.

The Central Vietnamese sticky rice cake is not as pure white as the one from the Mekong Delta, but has a dark, fragrant crust, infused with the aroma of thorny leaves and fresh glutinous rice. In Binh Dinh, this small, conical shape also symbolizes the ancient Cham towers, where history is reflected in every vein and every simple yet enduring detail.

She would often include this advice: "To make delicious cakes, you must choose fresh thorny leaves, wash them thoroughly, boil them until soft, then mash them until the dough is smooth and not lumpy; the mung bean filling, grated coconut, and sugar are stir-fried over low heat until they blend together into a balanced sweet and savory mass. It is these leaves that create the dark, chewy, and firm crust. If done correctly, the cake will not crack or crumble after steaming, maintaining its neat conical shape and smooth surface. When the cake is cooked, the initial black color turns into a glossy black, blending with the aroma of steamed banana leaves, a long-lasting fragrance that will remain intact even after being transported for days without tearing, warping, or breaking."

When we were children, we only remember the aroma and the chewy texture.

Growing up, we understand that it was a very early lesson about the structure of materials.

The green ramie plant is not used in the cake for coloring or decoration. It directly contributes to the structure, to reinforce, to stabilize, to help the glutinous rice flour do what it cannot do on its own. This is folk material science, accumulated over generations through craftsmanship, and doesn't require technical jargon.

The "village-sustaining" tree species in Asia.

Nearly half a century has passed since the traditional rice cakes accompanied us in our homeland's rituals, and today we hold in our hands a material that comes from the hemp family, but in a different form: ramie green fabric , an ancient plant fiber of East Asia.

Our feelings about clothing always begin with the material. And for us, the story of ramie begins with the very familiar and beloved rice cake wrapped in thorny leaves.

If the flax leaf keeps the bread from tearing, warping, or breaking during its long journey, then ramie envelops our bodies over the years using the same principle: durability, breathability, and reliability even when wet.

The ramie plant, viewed from a broader perspective, is one of the plants used almost entirely by humans. Its young leaves and roots have been used in traditional cuisine and medicine for cooling and regulating the body. The stem yields long, straight bundles of highly crystalline cellulose fibers, the foundation of ramie yarn. Before becoming a material for clothing, ramie was used to make ropes, nets, sacks, and craft paper—items requiring durability, strength, and adaptability to humid climates. Even the bark and residue after fiber extraction are not discarded. They return to the land as organic fertilizer, improving soil, retaining moisture, and preventing erosion. The ramie plant, therefore, was once a "village-sustaining" plant in many parts of Asia: unpretentious, not delicate, but resilient and useful in many aspects of life.

The return of a timeless material.

As the global fashion industry faces increasing pressure to minimize environmental impact while maintaining performance and aesthetics, natural fibers are gradually regaining attention. Among them, ramie (green linen) quietly but powerfully asserts its position as one of the oldest natural fibers, having been used in the textile industry for thousands of years.

Ramie is a type of basal fiber obtained from the stems of the white nettle Boehmeria nivea , a perennial nettle native to East Asia, historically used in ancient China and Egypt for over 6,000 years. Ramie fiber is primarily composed of cellulose, a polymer (long molecular chain) that provides strength to plant cell walls, with a content of 68-76%, much higher than many other plant fibers. This high cellulose crystal level gives the fiber its superior mechanical strength. It is a fabric woven from medium fibers, meaning the fibers are longer than those of flax (which makes linen). Ramie fiber has a naturally bright white color, a smooth surface, is stiff, and shrinks less than cotton.

In terms of rarity, few natural fibers possess the same lustrous sheen and slightly translucent quality as ramie. Known as "Chinese Grass," this fabric is highly valued for its superior sheen, durability, and breathability. After a washing process that completely eliminates shrinkage and reduces stiffness, ramie becomes a masterpiece of the garment industry, boasting exceptional qualities such as minimal wrinkling, super-fast drying, and a soft, airy feel. Ramie truly deserves the title of 'lightweight material,' providing a feeling of airiness almost imperceptible.

She always advised, "Anything that lasts a long time is trustworthy." Fashion is exactly like that. We may love the color, adore the silhouette, be captivated by a shimmering fabric, but the final choice will always be based on the quality of the yarn. While ramie was once considered "stiff" and requiring blending to soften it, modern weaving technology has rewritten that perception. Thanks to three main advancements: enzyme degumming; ultra-fine spinning; and mechanical softening, today's 100% ramie can achieve a softness and smoothness close to raw silk, while still retaining its original strengths: durability and breathability.

1. Enzyme degumming: uses catalytic proteins to separate the natural gum layer (pectin and hemicellulose) surrounding the hemp fiber without eroding the cellulose structure. This method results in cleaner fibers, less surface damage, and a softer feel compared to traditional chemical degumming.
2. Ultra-fine spinning: This is a process of reducing the fiber diameter to a very small level, sometimes as small as 6–12 microns (a micron is one millionth of a meter; a human hair is about 70 microns). The finer the fiber, the softer and more flowing the fabric, even if it is 100% plant fiber.
3. Mechanical softening: Softening is achieved through mechanical forces such as rolling, vibration, or air blowing, breaking temporary stiff bonds between fiber bundles and creating a smooth surface without a plastic or silicone coating. The result is 100% ramie fabric that is soft, smooth, less prone to pilling, drapes well, can be ironed at high temperatures without becoming shiny, and is durable.

Green linen fashion

Ramie has been used for 6,000 years, and to this day remains one of the most popular fibers in Japan, where natural materials are always a top choice for consumers. Garments made from ramie are always bestsellers because of their soft, smooth texture and natural drape, creating a rare, natural beauty.

Ramie is often woven simply or blended with silk, linen, or cotton to take advantage of its sheen and durability, while enhancing softness, shape retention, and a cool, lightweight feel against the skin from the blended fibers. Traditional garments: Ao Dai (Vietnamese traditional dress), high-end tailored clothing.

From the kitchen to the loom, hemp fibers connect memory and the present, reminding us that the most enduring fashion is not flashy, but proven by the fiber's structure and the genuine experience on the skin.

Why is Ramie called the 'King' of yarns?

Strength & Performance: In the materials industry, tensile strength is measured in megapascals (MPa) – indicating the maximum force a fiber can withstand before breaking. Ramie achieves 400–938 MPa, while cotton ranges from 287–597 MPa, and linen (flax) is typically about half the threshold of ramie. Green hemp is extremely strong and durable. While cotton loses about 20% of its tensile strength when wet, ramie becomes stronger, with tensile strength up to eight times that of cotton. This means ramie fabric retains its structure during washing and repeated use, resulting in longer-lasting garments with minimal deformation. For garment buyers focused on product longevity, this makes ramie particularly attractive. A 2022 textile durability study conducted in Guangzhou showed that ramie fabric could withstand 50–70 wash cycles before significant degradation, compared to 30–40 cycles for cotton.

Low shrinkage : Only about 3–4% after washing, lower than cotton (5–8%).

Aesthetics: The real difference of ramie lies in its visual quality. Woven from green hemp, the fabric has a smooth sheen and fewer seams than linen, with a silky sheen that remains visible even after multiple washes. Designers often describe the look of ramie as "linen with a silk sheen." In 2023, a Tokyo-based menswear brand conducted a wash test comparing a ramie-linen blend shirt to a pure linen shirt. After 20 wash cycles, the ramie-linen blend retained 90 % of its original sheen, while pure linen lost 65%. Customer surveys showed a 22% higher rating for the ramie-linen blend, particularly regarding its "appearance after washing."

Comfort & Breathability: Ramie is a "smart" fabric in regulating moisture and heat. Ramie has a high moisture return (12–15%), similar to linen, allowing for good air circulation, creating a cool, dry feeling when worn, ideal for hot and humid climates. The unique groove-like structure and pores of natural ramie fibers maintain the surface temperature of the ramie fabric in harmony with human skin temperature. Therefore, it is highly favored for its coolness in summer and comfort in winter, with consistent temperature. It truly acts as a "natural air conditioner."

Antibacterial and insecticidal properties: Ramie fiber contains trace elements such as strontium, pyrimidine, and hydrazine, which inhibit Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Escherichia coli. It possesses natural antibacterial properties, effectively limiting secondary bacterial and mite contamination in textiles, inhibiting 99% after 50 repeated washes. The unique ultrafine microstructure within ramie fiber allows it to strongly absorb substances such as formaldehyde, benzene, toluene, and ammonia from the air, providing deodorizing, antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-rotting properties, as well as lightfastness.

Heat resistance: Ramie has a melting point > 160°C, meaning it can be washed and ironed at high temperatures without deformation. Its thermal conductivity is higher than cotton, so it feels instantly cool against the skin and doesn't retain heat. Ramie begins to decompose above 160°C, higher than most synthetic fibers like polyester (which only reaches ~250°C but is prone to melting and losing its shape at high ironing temperatures).

Compatibility with dyes: Ramie fabric is relatively easy to dye and is not damaged by weak acids, retaining dyes very well, resulting in bright and long-lasting colors.

Sustainability: From a sustainability perspective, an area where modern fashion is having serious discussions, ramie has a clear advantage.
Ramie is a perennial plant: it is planted once and harvested for many consecutive years, without needing to be replanted each season like cotton. The average crude fiber yield is 1,500–2,000 kg/ha/year, while cotton yields 800–1,200 kg/ha/year. This means ramie produces 1.5–2 times more fiber per hectare, and requires less irrigation water and pesticides due to its natural insect resistance.
The fiber is completely biodegradable, and current processing technology prioritizes enzymatic degumming (removing the natural glue/gum layer adhering to the hemp fiber) instead of strong alkaline chemicals, which helps reduce wastewater pollution and minimize fiber damage.

Comparison table of ramie with other yarns

Criteria for selecting Ramie at Hity

When selecting a ramie supplier, we carefully consider their production capacity based on criteria to ensure the ramie is processed to the highest standards.

• Degumming & Spinning: Determines softness and sheen. Inadequate degumming will result in a rough, itchy fabric; excessive degumming will damage the yarn. A CV% yarn uniformity report below 15% is required (acceptable for garments).
• Weaving/Knitting Capabilities: Woven: Common for shirts. Check yarn density (EPI/PPI). Knitted: Cotton/modal blend ramie fabric is popular for t-shirts. Dimensional stability needs to be checked.
• Certifications: OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 (free from hazardous chemicals), GRS (Global Recycled Standard), ISO 9001 & BSCI, QC & Testing (requires transparent data on tensile strength (ISO 13934-1), shrinkage (less than 3% for premium products) and color fastness).

Use and store ramie.

Modern fashion is shifting from “sustainable materials” to “science-optimized materials.” Ramie is science’s offering for life: an ancient fiber that is not outdated, as it perfectly aligns with new design thinking, where durability, thermal properties, resource efficiency, and resin-free softening technology coexist in a 100% natural material. Garments made from Ramie are best suited when cared for according to the logic of natural fibers, so that the product’s lifespan is extended without losing its original beauty.

• Wash with cool or lukewarm water (30–40°C), use a moderate spin cycle, and avoid harsh detergents to prevent the fibers from becoming brittle.
• Dry in a breezy, shaded area, as ramie dries quickly and doesn't require prolonged, intense sunlight. Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight can make the fibers feel "crispy" even without damaging their structure.
• Iron the fabric at 150°C while it is still slightly damp, moving the iron along the grain to straighten creases, smooth the fabric, and maintain its shape.
• Store in a cool, dry place, not because ramie is afraid of moisture, but because prolonged exposure to humid and salty environments is a common challenge for all organic fibers.

From the memory of the sticky rice cake wrapped in thorny leaves that my grandmother sent, we understand another thing: the purest beauty is the beauty that has the right structure, is properly cared for, and is properly demonstrated.

Vietnam joins the global map of ramie suppliers.

Ramie is geographically concentrated due to the complex degumming and spinning techniques required. Today, the world's leading sources of high-quality ramie include China, the Philippines, Brazil, and several specialized mills in Europe and Japan. These regions provide buyers with access to a wide range of fiber grades, blending formulas, and fabric finishing processes, making ramie a versatile material for clothing lines from haute couture to everyday wear.

Ramie's journey in Vietnam began in 2009 at Thien Phuoc Company with the selection and creation of the ramie variety through traditional breeding methods, without the use of biotechnology related to gene editing, approved and protected by the Vietnamese Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development. By 2023, the An Phuoc hemp fiber factory, part of the An Phuoc – Viramie Group, located in Cam Tu commune (Cam Thuy district), exported its first shipment of 40 tons of finished fiber.

• China (largest supplier): Supplies over 80% of the world's raw ramie production. Hunan and Sichuan provinces are centers of industrial spinning mills. Large scale, cost-effective, advanced enzyme-based colloid separation technology, and diverse blending capabilities (ramie-cotton, ramie-silk). 
• Philippines (niche role) : Traditional farming, smaller scale. The yarn has a fine texture, is grown using environmentally friendly methods, and is suitable for "eco-luxury" brands. This country lacks large-scale spinning infrastructure and often has to export raw fiber.
• Brazil (emerging market): Expanding the area for growing ramie in rotation with soybeans. Competitive costs, large land reserves. However, the quality of sorting and finishing in Brazil is inconsistent.
• Japan & Italy (high-end centers): Import raw fibers and process them into high-quality fabrics. Japan specializes in ultra-fine yarns, precise dyeing techniques, and weaving for luxury fashion. Meanwhile, Italy is the finishing center, specializing in blending ramie with silk or linen for European fashion houses.

Ramie Thanh Minh Shirt Dress

2,895,000 VND

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Ramie Thanh Minh Midi Dress

1,995,000 VND

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Ramie Thanh Minh Raglan Ao Dai

2,395,000 VND

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Ramie Thanh Minh Oversize Shirt

1,695,000 VND

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Ramie experience

• Data source:
• Xue, Y., et al. “Properties and Applications of Ramie Fiber.”
• Journal of Natural Fibers, 2020.Li, H., Textile Science , 2018.