Ấn Hoa • Legacy of Craft by Hity • A journey to recreate the heritage of traditional crafts
In the history of crafts, heritage rarely arises from what is defined as "beautiful." For the most part, it emerges from the necessary processes, from the way people handle materials with their hands on natural materials, and then quietly passes it down through time. The "unfinished" fringed edges (Fringed/Raw Edge) are the embodiment of that beauty.
"Spinning" technology: destruction is creation.
Fringe is not born from haste...
It is born from patience.
In the world of Haute Couture, where perfection is often defined by sharp cuts and smooth surfaces, the appearance of frayed fabrics and torn edges (Fringed/Raw Edge) offers a different statement of luxury. It is the luxury of time, of the artisan's hand, and of the Wabi-sabi philosophy—beauty hidden in simplicity and seemingly unfinished things.
At Hity, fringes are more than just decoration; they represent a legacy of patience.
In contrast to the traditional weaving process of interlacing threads, the handcrafted fringing or distressed effect techniques at Hity begin with a bold action: breaking down the structure.
"We don't simply use scissors to create fringes; instead, we start with a very basic choice: tearing the fabric, rather than cutting with scissors. This seemingly crude tearing motion, however, requires high precision, allowing the fabric fibers to unfold according to their natural structure, preserving the softness, drape, and vibrant movement of the fringes. From there, each horizontal or vertical thread is patiently pulled out by hand by the artisan, slowly, steadily, without rushing, according to a carefully calculated ratio."
Each thread is a thin, delicate strand, easily tangled and broken. The artisan's hands need to be skillful enough to maintain a steady rhythm, their mind calm enough to prevent the thread from straying, and their concentration focused enough to avoid tangling. Just one misstep, and the thread will lose its necessary straightness and drape.
After the thread is pulled out, the remaining fabric fibers, having lost their support, will naturally unfurl, creating soft, flowing fringes.
Following the thread pulling process is a series of silent but crucial operations that create the durability and sophistication of the fringes on the garment: fabric folding, securing, edging, and pressing. Only when all elements have been carefully secured to prevent the threads from tangling or breaking and to stabilize the structure, are the fringes attached to each design, in the correct position, proportion, and rhythm with the silhouette. There are no superfluous details. No unconscious spontaneity.
This is a time-consuming process, requiring intense concentration and skillful craftsmanship. There are no shortcuts. No machinery involved.
The threads, ribbons, or strips of fabric hanging down from the garment, at first glance, might seem like mere decorative details, but they represent the intersection of multiple layers of value: material knowledge, professional discipline, concentration, and a reverence for time. The fabric structure, body movements, and rhythm of the work blend together, carrying with them the rituals and culture of the craft. This is a risky and captivating "subtractive process," the pinnacle of meticulousness. The artisan's hands must be still enough to maintain the rhythm, skillful enough not to distort the structure. Just one wrong step, and the fabric loses its perfect drape. Because it is hand-drawn, no two fringes are exactly alike. This subtle difference is the artisan's "fingerprint," a unique value that machines cannot replicate. In a world accustomed to uniformity, these differences become evidence of human existence.
Furthermore, the threads that are pulled out are not discarded. Each thread, a delicate, easily tangled, and fragile silk fiber, is preserved to create handcrafted brocade edging, becoming decorative elements on other garments. The threads do not end their life cycle, but are reborn in a different form. Here, we clearly see a philosophy of craftsmanship: No waste. No inefficiency. Materials are not for consumption, but to accompany humanity.
The fringe craftsmanship at Hity is not confined to a technical role. It becomes a living heritage, worn, in motion, and integrated into contemporary life. The fringe moves with each step, creating a soft and flexible feel. It gently touches the skin, without hindrance or forcing the wearer to "hold back." More importantly, it provides a sense of connection: knowing that the detail one is wearing is created from time, from patience, from a way of respecting people and materials. We see a recurring choice over time: working slowly, meticulously, and with the awareness that what is created today will become the professional memory of tomorrow.
And it is in that honesty that a legacy is formed.
Tua rua Hity, where heritage is not only preserved but also continued.
Tweed, Linen, and Cotton: The "Canvases" of Time
Fringe appears on many different materials: leather, suede, buckskin, cotton, linen, tweed, and even silk. It can be found in rustic leather jackets as well as in flowing evening gowns. Its ability to transcend styles, from rustic to formal, makes fringe a timeless detail.
Not all materials are suitable for this technique. On classic tweed or rustic linen, fringes are not just the finishing touch of the fabric edge, but where the life of the material continues. The fibers are freed from their tight weave structure, naturally unfolding to create a fluffy, 3D surface that invites sensual touch.
- Tweed - The Icon of Chanel: It's impossible to talk about fringed coats without mentioning tweed. Coco Chanel pioneered bringing frayed-edged coats into the upper class. On a tweed base, the wool, metallic threads, and ribbons, when pulled, create a beautiful, puffy 3D effect, breaking away from the stiffness of the suit's silhouette.
- Linen - The Breath of Nature: With its coarse, slub-like fiber structure, linen is the ideal material for this technique. When spun, linen creates rustic fringes reminiscent of ancient looms, evoking a distinct sense of Craft Heritage.
- Raw cotton: Offers a rugged, free-spirited aesthetic, often seen in the avant-garde designs of Japanese fashion houses like Yohji Yamamoto or Comme des Garçons.
A multi-sensory experience: where heritage touches your skin.
The history of fringes is a journey of transformation. From their earliest traces in ancient Mesopotamia (3000 BC), where fringes were used to seal covenants on clay tablets, to today, fringes have infiltrated contemporary collections in many different forms. Present on clothing, accessories, shoes, and bags, fringes consistently share a characteristic: they resist haste and demand restraint. Because fringes only truly shine when placed in the right place: as a deliberate accent. Each strand is a process. Each process takes time. And precisely because they cannot be made quickly or identically, fringes become a silent measure of craftsmanship and patience.
- Visual effect : first and foremost, movement. Fringe is created from hand-pulled threads that retain their softness and natural drape. When you walk, turn, or simply change posture, the fringe moves rhythmically and gently, without being stiff, rough, or heavy. This movement brings the garment to life, making the figure appear more flexible and graceful without needing a complicated silhouette. The fringed fabric surface creates depth in the garment. Under night lights or natural sunlight, the threads reflect light differently, creating movement even when the wearer is standing still. Properly placed fringes create focal points, guiding the eye vertically or horizontally along the body. This helps to balance the silhouette and subtly lengthen the lines.
- Tactile effect : This refers to the sensation on the skin. Due to the handcrafted process, the tassels are not sharp, not harsh, and do not cause uncomfortable friction. The tassel edges are securely fixed but still retain their softness, creating a pleasant feeling to the touch, even in sensitive areas such as the neck, hands, or pocket openings. The wearer doesn't have to be "concerned" about their clothing and can move naturally without worrying about being restricted.
- Peace of mind: Because each thread is carefully secured, pressed, and processed, wearers don't have to worry about the tassels coming loose, unraveling, or becoming deformed after a few uses. The garment maintains its neat appearance for a long time, even when worn frequently, with a lot of movement, or attending extended parties.
- A unique experience: Each hand-drawn tassel is a distinct fingerprint of the artisan. No two tassels are exactly alike.
- Nostalgia: In this flat, polished digital age, people yearn to touch things with texture, roughness, and the marks of human hands. Worn-out patches evoke memories, visible time, and the enduring legacy. Ultimately, there's a benefit difficult to quantify with technology: emotion. Knowing that the details you're wearing were created with patience, by skilled hands, and with no wasted materials, creates a unique sense of connection. It can't be rushed, it can't be completely copied, it can't be made exactly the same. That's what gives it elegance, not ostentation, but rarity. You're not just wearing a dress; you're carrying a story made for people, by people.
In a context where traditional crafts are often relegated to the past, fringes offer a different possibility: heritage doesn't have to stand still. It can continue to be made, used, and redefined in contemporary life, as long as the spirit of the craft remains intact.
Ultimately, fringe is a choice of attitude: resisting haste. Wearing a handcrafted fringe design means embracing the artisan's time, appreciating the subtle 'imperfections' of real life. In a hurried world, Hity chooses to pause, meticulously drawing each thread, to offer you a vibrant living legacy: Fringe.
Heritage records: Ancient traces
To better understand the cultural depth of this detail, let's look back with Hity at the millennia-long journey of tassels, from symbols of ancient power to contemporary icons of freedom.
From ancient Mesopotamia, tassels were a symbol of covenant.
Many researchers believe that fringes first appeared around 3,000 BC in ancient Mesopotamia (now Iraq). Evidence found on ancient sculptures and reliefs shows that fringes were used by various social classes. During this period, fringes were commonly found on dresses and shawls, garments woven from cotton or linen, while the wealthier classes used silk. Fringe could be worn straight, knotted, or processed in various ways, reflecting the skill and aesthetic sense of each community.
Notably, fringes in Mesopotamian society were not merely decorative. At one time, they were also used as a form of covenant confirmation: instead of signatures, fringe strips were pressed into clay to record contracts. Here, the material was not just for wearing, but also for bearing witness.
Native American Culture: Beauty from Function
In Native American cultures, fringes were treated as an integral part of leather garments. The seams were not cut, as that was considered wasteful. Instead, the excess was cut into fringes, serving both decorative and functional purposes.
Some fringe designs are intended to help rainwater drain away more quickly, preventing it from soaking into the garment. These fringes are also often combined with beads and natural dyes, creating a decorative language closely linked to the environment and a philosophy of moderation in material use.
The 1920s, the era of movement.
The 1920s are often considered the "golden age" of fringes in Western fashion. Flowing dresses, cut from luxurious fabrics, were edged with fringes to enhance movement when the wearer walked or danced.
Designers like Madeleine Vionnet and Charles Worth were pioneers in incorporating fringes into the design language of this era. Fringe was no longer just an auxiliary detail, but became central to the form and sense of movement. Many film stars such as Joan Crawford, Olive Borden, and Claudette Colbert contributed to imprinting this image into the public memory.
The cycles return
After a period of decline, fringe made a comeback in the 1950s with a more rebellious spirit: motorcycle leather jackets, decorative gloves, and iconic images of Elvis Presley or Rita Hayworth.
The 1960s and 1970s saw a full resurgence of fringe, as designers drew inspiration from indigenous and African cultures. Yves Saint Laurent introduced fringe collections in 1967. Around the same time, Cher made fringe a personal signature, appearing in both everyday wear and stage costumes.
0 comments