The yếm, an Asian lingerie, has a strong appeal, penetrating the global fashion trend. With its innocent shyness mixed with a salty charm, the yếm has become a symbol of the graceful beauty of Vietnamese women.
In the past, the yếm was the underwear or home wear of Vietnamese women. When going out, women often wore other costumes such as the áo tứ thân or áo mơ ba một Bảy. Nowadays, the modernized áo yếm has become a style of clothing that cleverly accentuates the lines of the neck and shoulders, while creating a gentle, feminine feeling. With its daring cut-out design, the áo yếm helps to show off the beauty of a woman's body. With the development of globalization, the cultures of countries around the world have interacted and influenced each other. Western fashion has been fascinated by the irresistible sexiness of the Vietnamese áo yếm. They borrowed the shape of this shirt to create the shape of the yếm neck shirt (halter top) today.
Asian lingerie: Originated from the Tam Y shirt
The first East Asian underwear recorded in history was the inner shirt (心衣) or the inner shirt (褻衣). Appearing during the Qin and Han dynasties, the first two dynasties of China, this shirt provides a perspective on early East Asian underwear fashion.
The Tam Y is designed from a rectangular piece of cloth wrapped around the body, leaving the back and armpits exposed. Shoulder straps and a tie around the waist help secure the shirt to the wearer’s body. Although simple, this design shows sophistication and is suitable for the hot and humid climate of the East Asian region.
The camisole plays an important role in the history of Asian lingerie. It is the foundation for the development of many other types of lingerie later on, such as camisoles, bras, panties, etc. Each type of lingerie has its own unique characteristics, reflecting the culture and aesthetics of each period.
Two versions of the first bra are noted in East Asian history. One version had straps that crossed the shoulders, the other had two straps. The common point was the open back and the straps tied in the back. Photo: gtacevedobolivia.com
Ao yem and Yang Guifei
From the simple inner shirt of the Qin and Han dynasties, Asian lingerie underwent a dramatic transformation with the appearance of the hazi (诃子) shirt in the Tang Dynasty (618 – 705 AD). This was the only Asian lingerie model that was exposed outside the garment, creating a unique highlight in the history of Asian fashion.
Unlike other types of lingerie that are discreetly hidden, the ao ha tu has a bold design with a high, tight and curved bust, showing off the full upper chest of the woman. The lower chest is fixed by a sturdy belt, creating a slim and sexy look. The appearance of the ao ha tu shows the change in the concept of fashion and aesthetics of women in the Tang Dynasty. They are no longer shy about showing off their body curves, but confidently express their sexy beauty and individuality.
Tang Dynasty lingerie was quite similar to a corset in showing off the wearer’s curves. It was made of thick fabric. The belt under the bust was used to lift the bust. Because it was exposed outside the outfit, it was made of multi-colored, meticulously woven material. Photo: gtacevedobolivia.com
One of the four great beauties of China, Yang Guifei, loved this type of lingerie. Yang Guifei had a rather plump figure, so the hazi dress especially accentuated her bust. Yang Guifei herself, with her influence, contributed to popularizing this type of lingerie. Women from countries influenced by Chinese culture at that time quickly followed her example and wore similar lingerie. From there, the Tang Dynasty lingerie style spread to other regions of Asia. The hazi dress is considered the predecessor of the Vietnamese yem dress and the Japanese haragake dress.
Tang Dynasty beauties such as Wu Zetian and Yang Guifei showed off their sexiness with the Ha Zi shirt, revealing through the outer layers.
From Ha Tu to Do where?
From the Tang Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty, the hazi (诃子) gradually transformed into the do dau (肚兜) model, which was the closest in shape to the contemporary yếm. The rectangular shape of the cloth transformed into a diamond shape, to cover the abdomen and navel. The goal was to change from showing off the bust to hugging the chest, hiding all curves.
Photo and note source: newhanfu.com
During the Qing Dynasty, the qipao said a lot about the wearer's social status. Noblewomen from wealthy families would own a qipao made of high-quality silk. The surface was elaborately embroidered with motifs such as peaches wishing for longevity; guavas wishing for a family with many children and grandchildren; or flowers symbolizing the modesty of a girl. The string tied behind could even be made of gold, silver or copper chains. Ordinary families used a qipao made of coarse fabric, with a string tied behind made of silk.
Vintage embroidered camisole. Photo: 1stdibs
Ao yem to Vietnam
The first records of the yếm in Vietnamese fashion history appeared during the Lý Dynasty (1009–1225). The yếm is believed to have been imported from China, but was modified to suit the Vietnamese climate and culture.
Vietnam's hot and humid climate requires cool, discreet clothing. The yếm dress meets both of these requirements. The thin, light material, along with the open back and armpit design, helps the wearer feel comfortable and not too hot. Compared to the Chinese version, the Vietnamese yếm dress has a lighter texture. The dress is made from a thin square piece of fabric, only about 40cm on each side. The neckline can be round (constructed collar) or deeply slit in a V shape (slit collar), creating a variety of styles.
Over time, the yếm is not only a type of underwear but also an important part of Vietnamese women's clothing. The yếm has been transformed into many different designs, materials and colors, suitable for each situation and the preferences of the wearer.
Vietnamese rural yem shirts are made of a simple, cool layer of fabric for hot climates. When going out, women wear an extra coat to look neat. Photo: kienthuc.net
The yếm - a statement of social status
During the Dai Viet era, political and economic stability helped trade develop. The yếm was not only a garment but also a symbol of the social status of Vietnamese women in feudal society. The yếm was upgraded with a variety of colors and fabrics.
The color of the yếm was strictly regulated, reflecting rank and class. Working women in the countryside wore coarse brown yếm dyed from tree bark. The daughters of officials were allowed to wear red yếm, called the “dai hong” (big pink) yếm. Red symbolized luck and power. Singers wore peach-colored yếm, representing promiscuity and immodesty. Yellow was taboo because it was the color of the king and symbolized nobility.
The material and style of the bib also reflected social status. Bibs were made from silk, satin, and brocade for the upper class. Commoner bibs were made from rough, rustic fabric. Bib styles also varied, from simple to elaborate, with delicate hand-embroidered motifs.
In the 20th century, the concept of class gradually faded, and regulations on the color and material of the yếm were no longer strict. The yếm became a popular outfit for Vietnamese women, expressing graceful and elegant beauty.
Nha Phuong's elegant colored yếm dress is similar to the color worn by girls from well-educated families in the past.
Ao yem - the charming and memorable Asian style
In the past, the yếm played the role of underwear or home wear for Vietnamese women. When going out, they often wore a áo tứ thân or áo mơ ba một Bảy to cover up. Over time, the yếm was modernized, becoming a unique outfit that cleverly accentuates the slender lines of the neck and shoulders, while creating a gentle, feminine look for the wearer.
With its bold cut-out design, the yếm dress helps to show off the beauty of the body in a subtle, hidden way. This unique beauty has attracted the attention of the international fashion world. The Vietnamese yếm dress has become a source of inspiration for Western designers, creating the popular halter top style today.
The development of globalization has created cultural exchanges between countries. Western fashion is fascinated by the sexy, shy beauty of the Vietnamese ao yem, and from there borrows the shape of this shirt to create unique designs, bearing the mark of Asia.
The halter neckline first appeared in Western culture in the 1940s. It was quickly incorporated into modern dresses and skirts. Photo: 1960s fashion
At the same time, in Asia, innovative yếm designs appeared. No longer lingerie, they were elaborately designed and became trendy fashion products.
Tang Thanh Ha and Thanh Hang wore modernized yếm in the movie Mỹ Nhân Kế. Although made from various materials such as transparent and satin, the yếm was elaborately embroidered to cover sensitive areas of the female body.
Choose the right underwear when wearing a camisole
With the most discreet camisole design, only revealing the shoulders and the sides are not too deep, you just need to choose a strapless bra. You should not use transparent straps because even if they are colorless, they are still easy to see, and lose the charm of bare shoulders. Instead, choose a high-end bra with lift (push up bra).
For bold low-cut or backless designs: nipple covers are the way to go. You can use just the nipple covers or opt for a more discreet adhesive bra like the one above.
Feeling your breasts sag when wearing adhesive bras? Choose adhesive bras with “bunny ears”. The “bunny ears” function to lift the nipples, helping to lift the breasts more effectively than regular nipple stickers.
Use fashion tape
Sometimes when you bend down, the loose camisole can be exposed on both sides. One way to help you limit this risk is to use fashion tape to carefully stick along the edge of the camisole on both sides of the chest. This way you can confidently wear the camisole when going out without worrying about it moving.
Photo: Amazon
The yếm is no longer associated with the rustic wrap-around skirt. Today, there are more than one way to give this charming garment a modern twist.
First of all, change the material of the shirt. The modernized yếm shirt does not necessarily have to be made from soft, tight silk. Don't be afraid to experiment with this sweet shirt shape with materials that have a certain stiffness such as brocade or taffeta. Not only does it bring novelty, this material also creates a different shape for the modernized yếm shirt.
Another way is to mix and match materials and styles when wearing a yếm. A yếm worn with tapered jeans creates a dusty, worldly feeling. A yếm paired with a chiffon or A-line mesh skirt brings a gentle, ladylike look. Or you can change the style of the traditional yếm. Like a flared dress with a yếm body, for example.
Source: bazaarvietnam
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